AMERICAN RISING: THE ASCENT OF AMERICAN BOURBON AND RYE WHISKEY
By Steve Kirwan
Belly up to the bar, boys! Dusty cowboys slamming shots is a fitting metaphor for early American whiskey. Rough and nasty, there’s a purpose for using “shot” glasses- quick delivery, minimal stench. Thankfully, that’s all changed. A massive uptick in interest, bolstered by a “perfect storm” of market forces (better marketing, plus higher tariffs on imports), prompted new brands and increased experimentation, ensuring ever-increasing availability and value.
Industry great-granddad Old Forester, no stranger to innovation, produces two award-winning core expressions- Old Forester 100 Rye and 86 Bourbon. The rye is dark and complex, with aromas of intense winter-spice, candied citrus rind, and hints of pine forest. The palate reveals brown-sugar sweetness, notes of lemon and dill, and freshly ground peppercorns, followed by an herbal drying finish. The 86-proof bourbon opens with moderate spice from its high-rye mashbill, with notes of vanilla, caramel, tart cherry, and distant smoke. A slightly oily mouthfeel leads to notes of dark chocolate-covered banana chips, dried tart cherries, strong rye spice, and light molasses. The finish is long and warm, with hints of peaches, apricots fading to burnt brown sugar, more rye, and a drying wave of herbs and black pepper. Each retails for $19 to $26.
Jack Daniels also released an award-winning rye in 2017. This tantalizing Tennessean explodes with vanilla, oak, banana, and background smoke. With just 70% rye in the mashbill, corn influence is more prevalent, contributing a hint of maraschino cherry sweetness and overall balance, although at the expense of traditional rye spice. The finish is relatively short and dry but leaves a distinct taste of black pepper and dark chocolate. Retailing for just under $20, I bought it on sale for $12! What???
Bulleit Distilling, touting the term “Frontier Whiskey,” achieved extensive critical acclaim during their short lifetime. While their “95 Rye” garners much of the attention, my unequivocal favorite is their Kentucky Straight Bourbon. I humbly pronounce it the best bourbon on the market, certainly the best I’ve tried. It’s complex, with a smoky-sweet-savory-spice aroma. On the palate, it exudes notes of leather, vanilla, and dried black cherry, with a dusty maple sugar sweetness in the background. Its long, sexy finish hints at black pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. I contend it’s the high 28% rye mashbill taming the usually cloying bourbon cherry-syrup sweetness while contributing the spice. Retailing for $22 locally, I received an extra 25% off during a Kroger-affiliate sale!
American whiskey has come a long way since those wild west days of “turpentine-in-a-glass.” Rye and bourbon can now take a well-earned space beside the Scotch and Irish. And as rising import tariffs continue relieving downward price pressure, US whiskey distillers enjoy unparalleled freedom to experiment and expand. The market’s never been better for American bourbons and ryes, and their fans.